Despite the name, the ‘No Poo’ method isn’t what it sounds like – it simply means ‘no shampoo’. Followers of this movement are quitting the use of traditional shampoo, arguing that shampoo isn’t strictly necessary for healthy hair or maintaining proper hygiene, and may be harming the hair. Some opt for water alone to wash their hair, and others turn to household items like baking soda and apple cider vinegar to clean their hair and scalp.
But why?
The main motivation for ditching shampoo is a belief that shampoo contains harmful chemicals which strip away the hair’s natural oils and lead to damage. Others are motivated by the opportunity to save money, save time and save plastic waste. Put off by a list of artificial ingredients which sound unnatural and therefore supposedly unhealthy, no-pooers feel organic alternatives are the way forward.
For those that feel shampoo is simply not necessary at all, the belief is that after an initial adjustment period of up to six weeks the scalp can be ‘trained’ to balance oil production, so the hair does not get greasy. It stems from the idea that shampoo artificially dries the hair out by stripping away natural oils, causing the scalp to overproduce sebum so the hair gets greasy more quickly and thus needs to be washed more often. Quitting shampoo is thought to break this ‘vicious cycle’.
But raiding your kitchen cupboards may be more harmful for your hair. One common alternative to shampoo is baking soda, which could potentially be damaging. With a high pH of 9, baking soda is thought to open the protective layer of the hair shaft, allowing water in, which breaks the hydrogen bonds of the keratin molecule (hair is made of keratin). This is thought to make the hair more fragile and prone to breakage.
Others rinse their hair with apple cider vinegar as a means of removing excess oil build-up. With a lower pH closer to the natural pH balance of the scalp, and believed to have anti-fungal and antimicrobial properties, it may be more suitable than baking soda, but it is not thought to be as effective as shampoo at removing dirt and oil.
Instead of shampoo, advocates suggest brushing the hair with a boar-bristle brush, as well as ‘scritching’ and ‘preening’ which refer to scalp massage and pinching small sections of the hair, to distribute oils through the length of the hair to avoid a ‘greasy’ look. Following this hair care routine is promoted as a means of resolving scalp issues like dandruff. However, using water alone is unlikely to be sufficient to remove oil, dirt and pollutants.
In fact, one study investigating the impact of different wash frequencies on the condition of the hair and scalp found that a lower wash frequency (in groups like astronauts and Antarctic research teams) saw a rise in scalp itch and flakes, and Malassezia, bacteria associated with scalp issues like dandruff. For separate groups in the study who historically struggled with scalp conditions like seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis, an increased wash frequency resulted in a reduction of scalp itching, redness, irritation and Malassezia levels. This study demonstrates that washing your hair less often is associated with an increase in scalp issues.
Could shampoo be causing your hair loss?
It is unlikely that shampoo is causing your hair loss. There might be two reasons you link shampooing to hair loss: a) you lose hair while washing your hair, or b) you worry the ingredients in shampoos are harmful to your hair.
It is normal for everybody to shed up to 100 hairs per day as part of the normal hair cycle. Up to 10% of your hair is in the telogen phase at any one time, which means it has stopped growing and is ready to be shed to make way for new hair to grow in its place. When you shampoo your hair, this is the time you are likely to dislodge the hair that is ready to be shed. If it seems like you are shedding more hair than usual, this could be a sign that male pattern baldness is starting to cause your hair to thin and shed at a higher rate.
Male pattern baldness is a completely natural condition, caused by the male androgen hormone DHT. Some men are more genetically susceptible to the effects of DHT, which causes hair thinning and eventually hair loss. It is not linked to shampoo or hair washing in general. Thus, if you feel you lose a lot of hair while showering and it puts you off the idea of shampoo altogether, remember that treatments like Minoxidil and Finasteride target DHT directly and are clinically proven to slow or reverse hair loss, while cutting out shampoo is unlikely to have any discernible impact.
On the other hand, not all shampoos are created equal, so you should opt for a shampoo which contains gentle and nourishing ingredients.
What are sulfates, and are they bad for my hair?
Sulfates often have long, scary names that sound (for want of a better word) chemical-y. For instance, one of the most common ingredients in shampoo is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). It’s in shampoo as a ‘surfactant’ aka cleansing agent, which helps shampoos to foam up and lather, so they’re great for helping to remove dirt and oil.
Some argue that they’re too good at cleaning and can lead to dryness by stripping the hair of its natural oils. In the beauty industry, there has been a shift away from the use of harsh sulfates such as SLS in cosmetic products, and brands tend to opt for alternative cleansing agents.
Sons’ Strengthening Shampoo uses surfactants which are gentler than sulfates, but still do the job of helping the product lather up and cleanse the scalp of dirt and oil. Sons’ Shampoo also contains other ingredients which have proven benefits for the scalp and hair quality. It contains a plant extract called ‘Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract’, otherwise known as Saw Palmetto, which is thought to naturally reduce DHT on the scalp.
The takeaway
Most evidence for foregoing shampoo is anecdotal, as no long-term scientific studies into the No Poo method have been conducted to date, so the benefits for overall hair health are inconclusive. Cutting out shampoo won’t stop hair loss and may be damaging, but choosing a gentle, well-formulated product can help keep your scalp healthy and your hair in good condition. If you are experiencing hair loss, take our free consultation for treatment recommendations.
All of our blog articles are reviewed by our Medical Director before publication.
